Do you paint furniture? Maybe I should ask, do you SEAL your furniture after you paint it? Painting furniture is the bread and butter of this blog. It’s the basis for why this website was started. I love to paint furniture, but I have learned that it’s all for none if you don’t know how to seal furniture correctly. Certain paints like chalky style paint practically disintegrate to dust without it (hence why it’s called “chalk paint”). I want to share my thoughts on how to seal and protect all types of furniture.
Let’s discuss the basics of how to seal furniture for a high traffic surface.
First and foremost I believe that you need to follow the manufacturers recommendation for a sealer.
That being said, I’ve experienced times when the “recommended sealer” hasn’t been tough enough for a high traffic area.
You followed the directions and the paint didn’t hold up, now what?
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How do you seal chalk paint that get’s a lot of use?
Like I said earlier, it’s best to follow the manufacturers recommendations. Most chalk paint products recommend a chalk paint wax to go with it.
Chalk paint is known for its velvety ultra matte finish. The clear coats that go with chalk paint are made to seal the paint and keep that ultra matte finish.
These work well, but just like with the wax, they don’t seem to hold up well to a high traffic area.
As a matter of fact, if you read the fine print on most wax cans, it says to reapply it every year! Ugh, who has time for that!
Is there a top coat or sealer that works with chalky paint that will withstand a higher traffic area?
In my experience, I’ve found a few. The key is finding a sealer that protects against water without losing too much of the ultra matte finish.
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One of my go-to favorites for sealing any sort of paint is a Minwax product called Polycrylic.
I love this product because it’s water based, doesn’t yellow over time like polyurethanes, and it comes in a matte finish!
I use this sealer for practically all table top, bathroom and kitchen surfaces. It seals and protects against water very well.
Here is what it looks like on raw wood. This was an old cherry desk that I stripped down to the natural wood, so it did bring out a few of the red undertones.
I’ve also found that General Finishes (they manufacture milk paint) makes a really good top coat too.
I used this sealer when I painted our old laminate cabinets. Years later (and a lot of wiping the surface down with Clorox wipes) the paint is still holding strong!
General Finishes also makes a sealer called Flat Out Flat, which is a good alternative if you want a totally matte finish but a little more durability than wax.
Side note; I have heard from other furniture painters that it doesn’t hold up quite as well as the High Performance Top Coat.
Like I said before, the higher the gloss, the better the durability and protection against elements.
I’m sure there are other good top coats and sealers for furniture, and if you’ve tried one and like it let me know!
I guess I’m the type of person that doesn’t branch out much when I find something I like 🙂
The key is finding a good clear coat that not only protects against all the elements (and kids and pets and life!) AND still maintains the beautiful look of the wood (or paint).
I made a little handy chart for another post that you might find helpful. You can see more of how to choose the right type of paint below.
Interested in knowing more about Chalk paint and how to use it?
Or maybe you want to know the difference between chalk paint and milk paint?
Want to see a whole list of furniture painting and refinishing posts?
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As always, thanks for stopping by. Let me know if you have questions or suggestions on other top coats!